Galway Tempest

On the second part of my Irish journey this summer, I decided to take in Galway, a medieval town on the Western coast. After three days of intense heat in Dublin, a city I never thought I would see such heat in, I took a tranquil train rides through to the West of Ireland and reached Galway city mid- morning. The ride had been filled with views of great fields of green and an interesting political conversation with an Irishman. Warning, if you start up any politics with the Irish, it will be a long conversation. Actually, most conversations, especially with men in Ireland, will be long and take a while to end. It was a wam, bam, 48 hours well spent and I wished it had been longer.

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The weather took a funny turn right after I arrived, I got off the train needing a good long walk, dropped cases at the bed and breakfast and took College down into the downtown area of Eyre Square, passing through the shopping mall that boasted one of the remaining walls of this great walled city of Ireland. I headed down into Quay and Spanish Arches area, chased the lanes around  for a couple of hours. It looked and smelled of rain, so I tried to cram in the sights as much as I could. Then came in the storm. I had been napping at the B&B and the whole place shook. Within 10 minutes and amazing wind storm with hail, thunder and tree bits blew in and was gone. That’s Galway for you.

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A Taste of Irish Feminism: Crestfall by Mark O’Rowe

One of the main reasons I was in Galway was to take in a play as the Arts Festival was in full swing. I had been trying to book plays from overseas and several had sold out but luckily I snagged a seat at the Druid for Crestfall, a play with three powerful women on a night and what their lives had culminated in for that one night. Deep and insightful to the psyche of womankind it gave a great snapshot of real life tragedy and life in a tiny compact stage. I was on the edge of my seat and drawn in, raging inside with the cast. The play ended up with few favorable reviews, but I think that is because the reviewers just could not handle the raw nature of the play. I was relieved to see a man could write about women, actually capture some of the guttural essence of single mothers and other women downtrodden by society. Directed by Annabelle Comyn, and starring Kate Stanley Brennan, Siobhán Cullen, and Amy McElhatton. Three very different women struggling in a dystopian Dublin.

Galway Arts Festival

If you get a chance to come in the month of July, this festival is a good kick off for festival travels. I managed three festivals this trip, and this was a great beginning. In the beautiful surroundings of the city and university, the big top is also filled with concerts and Trad musicians. If you are planning to go, book your accommodations early and try to get them near the river. Taxis can be rough during the festival and you will need to walk everywhere. But it’s a great little city for walking. Many big and small acts come to the festival, with some famous Irish musicians booking in because they like the festival. Keep an eye on the website as tickets sell out fast.

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Dress in layers, you are by the sea. There is a great many shops to keep you busy. I usually don’t do the tourist shops things, mainly stick to galleries of which there are plenty in this town. Plenty of buskers and jewelry and clothing stalls to pass the time with. Galway is one of the arts hubs of Ireland with creativity on every corner. And then of course Galway is a tourist hub, filled with tour buses and bus barns that amazingly manage to fit in such a small downtown area.

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The west of Ireland has many magical places to visit, all lush and green. I had planned for months on my day two being a fantastic trip to the Aran Islands. The weather the following day got even worse, the ocean filled with darkness and wind, so I opted for a coach tour of Connemara National Park instead. What a ride; fjords, endless sheep and landscapes, all seen in the mostly rain filled summer’s day. If you can manage it, stay in the park either camping or at a nearby inn. There is so much to see and experience hiking it will take at least a full day. The highlight of the tour was the Kylemore Abbey and Victorian Gardens estate tour. This massive estate was once home to a very wealthy family, but now has been converted to an Benedictine Abbey. The grounds are lush and rambling, you are in for a good walk with many photo opportunities.

Ireland’s west coast and the Atlantic Way is filled with a great many treats for the senses, wear layers and bring your imagination. Two days was not enough, so if you can manage it try for three to four days to explore this beautiful area fully. This is one of the few places where doing a hire car with a group may be your best advantage so you can get to all of the sights around Galway. Just be patient if you drive into Galway, for the streets pack fast and it may be better to park at the outskirts and walk in.

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Spanish Arches


Benedictine Abbey


Connemara State Park

Victorian Walled Garden

Galway Spring Sunday Musings

Charlie Byrne’s Bookshop

The magic of a day in a place like Galway can keep your spirits up even in the most dreich of spring days. I’m stuck in PDX waiting to get back to a magic city like Galway, I need to get back out of the American flatness that seems to be happening this spring and I am being called to the verdant lands in the west of Ireland.

So what’s on in Galway this week? There is rain in the forecast for the week with Saturday being filed with Thunder and Lightening. Love a great thundershower? Some do. Not a great way to get the spring going, but you can always walk in the rain. People ask me why I go to places like Ireland with all the rain, shouldn’t you seek hot climes. I tell them I am used to it. I live in the Pacific Northwest and we live in a parallel world to Ireland and the UK weather wise. But when we get heat waves, we get them. Traveling to a place like Ireland and experiencing it’s people and places in all weather is still exciting to me. And in this case it is definitely the grass is greener.

So walking the parks with a brelly or hood up will mean a magical walk in the rain. Start your day with coffee or breakfast at some of the great eateries. Coffee or tea is first on the walk. Fun, eclectic Coffeewerk + Press in Quay Street has a soft, cozy muzzy morning feel to it. However, since much of the seating is outside and it’s raining you may want to get mobile with the brew, or go to a large shop with space to duck out of the rain. Try Urban Grind in William street. Serves up a brew that is changing as new beans varieties become available, pricing ranges in €2.70 to €3.00 ranges. For more of a sit down meal check out Ard Bia, it’s a brunch to dinner cafe in the Spanish Arches area. They serve pancakes, French toast and a host of other yummy foods in a great atmosphere. They also have traditional Irish fare and international dishes. There are some great murals in the neighborhood. So you can start an art walk after you get out.

Since it will be raining so much, checking out indoor activities is the key for ducking out in between the rains. Bookstores are always a fabulous rainy day adventure, because you need a book for reading later with your tea. Check out Charlie Byrnes Bookshop, a massive rambling place with new, bargain, used and anything in between books. Can’t find your book for the stack by your bed there, take a peruse in Kenny’s Books. Always on the hunt for used books in Galway or Ireland.

It’s afternoon and may rain still. Keep walking the streets and grab some lunch. Get your organic on at Kai Cafe and Restaurant with great textured stone walls and warmth. Dry out a bit and check out the local exhibits or cinemas you could go to, just try not to fall asleep. There is the IMC Cinema Galway and the EYE Cinema for major releases, but for independent film fun, check out the Galway Film Centre and see what independent makers are doing.

Weather really got you down or just need to laugh about it? Go to a comedy show. On May 16 you can catch The Róisín Dubh Comedy Showcase every tuesday at Róisín Dubh.

But really if you can, keep walking and talking in this lovely town. Artwalks and neighborhood exploration in the thing to get you out and enjoying the spring. It may rain but the foliage is busting out and well work the dampening.

For more ideas about this week or the next, visit:


Photo Tom Macbeth